Why are skin care products so confusing? Why is there so little brand loyalty? Part of the problem is that the last 20 years have brought a tsunami of new skin care products, new ads, new claims. The splashy advertising, the celebrities and the offers combine to produce instant hype. Every new product promises a new “advance” or “technology” or “significant improvement”. Because this revolution is so new, everyone–retailers, consumers, dermatologists, editors–are struggling to figure it out.

Some cosmetics companies like it that way. They invent funny names for molecules. They retouch the living daylights out of those unretouched ads. They cleverly (yet legally) manipulate the copy. These deceptive practices are called “smoke and mirrors”– the metaphor for deceptive or fraudulent practices. The term was first invented to describe the way in which magicians could make objects appear or disappear by using mirrors amid a sudden burst of smoke. It’s clever, but also deceptive.

It works for magicians, and it works for the skin care industry. So women, the willing and unknowing, plunk down big bucks because they want to believe in magic. It’s a national addiction. People everywhere want to fight aging and are looking for solutions.

If you’re going to spend money on skin care products, spend it advisedly. Make sure that you’re not being conned. Make informed decisions. Invest in products that really work. Discriminate. Know how the channel of distribution affects the quality of the merchandise, and the price that you pay. Understand how ads are delicately written and carefully crafted.

Zein Obagi, MD

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1. Special Cleansing Gel was the first liquid non-soap, fragrance free product of its kind. Thanks to Quillaja Saponaria Extract, this product foams better than any traditional soap around, gently removing oils and impurities without stripping skin.

What the press has to say: Good Housekeeping says it’s a “secret for getting gorgeous skin.”
Added bonus: Use it to remove your make-up!

2. Multi-Active Toner broke the bottle-and-cotton-ball mold as the first toner that could be spritzed directly onto skin. The alcohol-free formula offers hydration while prepping skin for optimal reception from moisturizers.

What the press has to say: Shape says even finicky skin conditions will fall for this spritz.
Added bonus: Get it in a travel-friendly size to combat in-flight dehydration!

3. Active Moist: A little goes a long way! This oil-free moisturizer hydrates without the greasy after-feel. Make this no-nonsense skin smoother your year-round moisturizer of choice.

What the press has to say: C magazine says it’s a “lightweight, oil-free lotion” for dermal delight.
Added bonus: Goes on smooth, absorbs quickly, and Silk Amino Acids improve skin texture!

4. Total Eye Care — first, it smoothes and retexturizes. Second, it helps reduce puffiness as optical light diffusers help minimize dark circles. Third, it contains a chemical-free physical sunscreen to fight off UV damage. When we say multi-task, we mean it!

What the press has to say: O, the Oprah magazine says it’s essential.
Added bonus: Delivers benefits of alpha hydroxy acids around the eye without the irritation.

5. Solar Defense Booster SPF30 is the product so amazing, another company sent us a letter of congratulations when it hit the market! Turn your favorite moisturizer or foundation into a UV fighter with this SPF product that helps combat premature aging.

What the press has to say: W magazine says it “morphs any makeup or moisturizer into a weapon against sun damage.”
Added bonus: Use directly on skin for maximum SPF30 protection.

6. UltraCalming Cleanser is the waterless breakthrough for sensitive skin caused by stress, pollution, hormonal imbalance or irritating cosmetics. Can be rinsed off or tissued off, making it ideal for skin intolerant to water.

What the press has to say: In Style names it one of their best beauty buys.
Added bonus: Tissue off formula is great for travel or when on the go!

7. Daily Microfoliant®: One use will make you say “wow!” as this rice-based powder exfoliant transforms into a skin-smoothing and brightening emulsion – and transforms all who use it!

What the press has to say: Shape magazine says it’s a must-have; Glamour says it delivers the glow you deserve.
Added bonus: Gentle enough to use daily – meaning irritation will never stop you from exfoliating.

8. Power Rich™ contains a potent peptide proven to improve skin’s appearance in texture, firmness and tone. In just 4 weeks, you’ll see a difference – but don’t be surprised if you see the difference overnight!

What the press has to say: New Beauty loves our peptides, “key in maintaining a firm, even complexion.”
Added bonus: Unique formulation delivers better results than products just now coming on the market.

9. Skin Hydrating Booster is the dehydration-busting fluid that’s almost 100% Hyaluronic Acid – an ingredient in the body that helps keep skin smooth and elastic. This means increased hydration and minimized fine lines.

What the press has to say: Vogue recommends it to help skin hold tight to essential moisture.
Added bonus: Use as a spot treatment, all-over, or mix with your moisturizer to revitalize parched skin.

10. Daily Resurfacer is the power exfoliant that self-neutralizes on skin, meaning no rinsing, no timing, no over-exfoliated, irritated skin! Each precise dose resurfaces, smoothes and brightens to hydrate, even skin tone and improve clarity.

What the press has to say: O, the Oprah magazine says “the solution absorbs quickly, making it easy to add to your skin care routine.”
Added bonus: Contains Rooibos Extract, an antioxidant 50 times more powerful than Green Tea polyphenols.

Dermalogica. “The moment your skin changed. Forever.” Your Skin. 11 Sep. 2009 [